Konica Minolta

Konica


Konica Minolta Autofocus 50mm f/1.7 Lens for Maxxum SLR Cameras
(Electronics) Konica Minolta

Manual focus now better dampened over previous generation lens
Wide rubberized focusing ring
For use with Minolta Maxxum Autofocus SLR cameras


Price: $99.99 $109.99

Answers

Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7?

Does anyone know if that would work with the Minolta Maxxum 3xi? It's a really old camera, and I'm not sure if it would work?


Hi Gaby!
I think so, have a look at this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Minolta-Maxxum-AF- 3xi-Body-50mm-1-7-Lens_W0QQitemZ23023908 3145QQihZ013QQcategoryZ43493QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I found this article that says: The Minolta lens mount never changed, until the Maxxum autofocus series came out. Autofocus Minoltas cannot accept manual focus lenses.

and in the wikipedia page it doesn't say anything about different lens mount:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minolta_AF< br /> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konica_Mino lta#Autofocus_35mm_Film_SLRs

get some nice film to try on the 3xi, Velvia, Kodachrome, etc

F_a_b_i_o

Focus speed of Minolta 50mm f1.7


This video displays the focusing speed of the Minolta (original) 50mm f1.7 lens on an a900 body, focus speed is set to fast in the menu. The lens ...

wondering how to clean oil off apture 50mm 1.7 af minolta?



You don't. You send it to a repair shop or buy a new lens. It is NOT a "do it yourself" project.

I&#39;m going to the Grand Canyon for the first time in late September. What gear should I bring?

I have a Sony A200.

Lenses:
kit 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6
kit 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6
Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7
Minolta AF 28mm f/2.8
Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 macro
Minolta AF 70-210mm f/4 macro

I think I have UV filters for all lenses, but I need to check. Any other equipment recommended for this trip? I do know I need to get a tripod.

I will likely be taking one of those preplanned day trips which includes a plane ride over the canyon, a hike, a 4WD ride, and rafting (not white water). I will also have some time to look about on my own.

I will be leaving Phoenix on Thur and driving up Route 66 to Tusayan. From there I'll be staying at Thur, Fri, and Sat night in Grand Canyon, AZ. Friday will likely be the tour. Saturday I may drive to Sedona.
Mere Mortal: I am a complete novice at photography - I only got my camera about 6 months ago. A spare camera body is beyond me right now.
I should also note that I am flying in to Phoenix, so packing too much gear is less than ideal.
I also have a small video camera which I will also be bringing along.


You will need the following:

* A coat. Will likely be chilly at night in late September.

* Don't forget the circular polarizers.

* Other things to think about might be a shutter remote/release, spare batteries, spare camera body, pocket hard drive and a few extra media cards. As you mentioned, a tripod. Handy for just after sunset.

I see some redundancy in your lenses.
Do you really need the 35-70mm or the 28mm? Is the image quality of the 18-70mm good enough to replace the 28mm? Is the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 of good enough quality to supplant 70-210mm f/4? You have listed a ton of glass. Don't get so loaded down that you don't have any fun. That high altitude can get to you pretty fast. Something to think about.

Sedona itself has become very crowded and touristy over the last 20 years. It is no longer the pleasant, sleepy art colony it once was. I no longer go there, however Oak Creek Canyon on the way to Sedona is not to be missed. Very photogenic.

If you have any other questions feel free to contact me, I have lived in the area for last 20 years.

.

Minolta AF Lens 50
Minolta

49mm filters
7 aperture blades
Built in lens hood

What went wrong with this picture?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/19128519@N0 3/3444155212/in/set-72157616790181096/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/19128519@N0 3/3444155150/in/set-72157616790181096/
The second photo is drastically over exposed. However, both images were taken at about the same time with the sun more or less equally hidden behind the clouds.

Camera Sony A200 set to Aperture Priority
f/11, 1/640, iso 400.

First image:
Minolta AF 28mm f/2.8 lens

Second image:
Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7 lens

I've noticed that when I use this 50mm lens for anything outdoors, the image is usually over exposed.

Any input would be appreciated.

If you are willing, I would also appreciate feedback, the good and bad, on any of the other images. I'm especially interested in thoughts about composition in both framing the subject and camera setup.


Fotoace is not reading the data. The 50mm shot is taken at f/11 using aperture priority.
There are two explanations for the discrepancy in exposure. First, you metered from different parts of the shot using spot metering, either inadvertently or by design. You didn't mention this, but it's obvious that whereas the 50mm shot is overexposed, the 28mm shot is badly underexposed, being exposed for the sky only.
The second possibility is that the diaphragm of the 50mm lens is sticking and does not shut down to the indicated f stop when the shutter is pressed (it will, of course, be wide open at f/1.7 up to that point). This is not an uncommon fault, especially on older lenses and can be caused by lubricant from the focusing screw leaking past the seal and getting on to the diaphragm leaves. To check this, stop your lens down to f/22, put the shutter on B and look at the diaphragm leaves as you press the shutter. They should close down instantly; there should be a delay of a small fraction of a second only. Any longer than this, and your exposure will be way over.

Are there any guidelines for knowing when to adjust aperture, shutter speed, or ISO?

I realize shutter speed is largely dictated by whether it's a moving subject. I'm talking about a situation where you have a more or less stationary subject. Is this decision at all influenced by focal length, time of day, cloudy vs sunny, contrast between subject and background, or anything else?

As a side question, I have a Sony A200. I've noticed that I have to be very careful when using my Minolta AF 50mm 1.7 lens. I have had many shots - especially in Aperture Priority - that have been almost completely white. Is this normal?
I would very much like to take a photography class. Unfortunately, my work schedule plus the small community is making it difficult to find one. In fact, I don't even find a photography class in the catalog of the local community college.

Please forgive my if some of my questions seem tiresome. I am honestly trying to learn both my camera and photography concepts.

Here's a link to some of the better pictures I've taken so far.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19128519@N0 3/


If you're taking pictures of stationary subjects, like landscape photos, then your main concern is depth of field. The depth of field means the distance in front and behind the subject that will be in focus. With a long depth of field, the background will be sharp and in focus. With a shallow depth of field, the subject in the foreground will be in focus, but beyond a certain distance from the camera, the background will be blurry. The depth of field is determined by the aperture setting that you use (the F-stop). A small aperture will give you a long depth of field, and a wide aperture will have a shallow depth of field. Usually, with landscape photos, you want a long depth of field to keep your background sharp, so you would use a small aperture setting...like f/11 or f/16.

The aperture setting determines how much light comes into the camera, AND it also determines the depth of field.

It sounds like what you're looking for is the "Sunny 16 Rule." It's a guideline for how to take pictures outside with manual exposure. It applies to both digital and film cameras. The Sunny 16 Rule basically says that on a clear, sunny day, you will set your shutter speed to the same as your ISO rating, and then adjust the aperture for the lighting conditions. Normally, you want to use a low ISO rating to have sharp pictures with less noise or grain. So let's say you use 100 ISO. Then in bright sun, you would set your shutter speed to 1/100, and set the aperture to f/16. If it's hazy or partly cloudy, you might open the aperture to f/11. In the shade, you would open the aperture to f/8. In the late evening, near sunset, you might open the aperture to f/5.6. And so on.

But you can also leave the aperture on the same setting and adjust the shutter speed instead. If you want to keep a long depth of field and use a small aperture, then in some cases you might need to use a slower shutter speed. If you're taking pictures of stationary subjects, then a slow shutter speed isn't a problem. You'll just have to mount your camera on a tripod.

So look up the Sunny 16 Rule. Like I said, it applies to both film and digital cameras. That will help you figure out how to set your shutter speed and aperture, based on what ISO rating you're using. Of course, with a digital camera you can also change the ISO setting of the sensor. But you should always try to use a low ISO setting, for the best quality pictures.

Here's a Wikipedia article on the Sunny 16 Rule:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16

About your other question...it sounds like you were probably using an ISO setting that was way too high and your pictures are being overexposed. If you have the camera on "Aperture Priority" mode, then you select the aperture and the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed to get the right exposure. However, if you are shooting in very bright sunlight and you set the ISO too high, then it's possible that the required shutter speed is faster than what the camera can even go up to (remember the "Sunny 16 Rule."). So your pictures will end up being completely overexposed.

It's better to use manual mode, so you can adjust the aperture and shutter speed yourself.


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