Olympus E 30

I am thinking about just saving up a bit more, instead of going entry level photography, i feel as if buying higher grade will allow me to learn and grow with the camera.NIKON D90, OLYMPUS E-30, CANON T1I? TELL ME WHY. PRICE MATTERS! THANKS.

you can consider Nikon D90 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S VR DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
# 3.0-inch 920,000 pixel (VGA x 3 colors) TFT-LCD
# Live View with contrast-detect AF, face detection
# Image sensor cleaning (sensor shake)
# Movie capture at up to 1280 x 720 (720p) 24 fps with mono sound
# IS0 200-3200 range (100-6400 expanded)
# 4.5 frames per second continuous shooting
# 3D tracking AF (11 point)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ENO ZY4?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&l inkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=3 90957&creativeASIN=B001ENOZY4

2010-02-09 14:47:09 by AMER.M.

This is a clipped video of the Olympus E-30 DSLR review. You can see the full video at ww.ePHOTOzine.tv here: www.ephotozine.tv Make sure you see ...

When I take a long exposure, (Olympus E-510), it takes as long to write to the card as it does to take the shot. So say I do 30-second night exposure. I then have to wait another 30 seconds while the file is written to the card. Is this the same with every DSLR? I'm looking to upgrade a bit- there are things about the Oly I don't like (Hello, noise and banding...)
But I hate sitting there waiting until I can take the next shot- seems to me that there could be a buffer built in that would store the shots and do the writing in the background while allowing you to keep shooting unhindered. My old Panasonic FZ10 did the same thing- but of course it was limited to 8 seconds, so it wasn't too long to wait between shots. I find this time-consuming and frustrating, as I tend to do a fair bit of night photography, and half my time is spent waiting for files to be written to the card. Is this standard, or just the cheaper cameras I've been using?
Hi-Yes, I'm aware of these things- my question was if all cameras suffer from this writing delay, or if someone has figured a way to get around it- seems pretty simple to me; a bit of built-in memory that can hold a few long exposures while allowing you to keep working, maybe only activated below a preset shutter speed. So you'd take a shot, it is stored in the memory while you're taking the next shot, etc. Then the stored shots are flushed to the card. I know this is the principle behind the buffer, but why does it take as long to write the information as it does to take the shot? Surely there's a better way than waiting for 30-60 seconds between each and every long exposure.

Usually the longer the exposure, the longer the write times.

Most of the subjects and techniques that require long exposures do not depend upon rapid fire. If you are going to be shooting long exposures, using a lower ISO will remove some of the noise, but when there is a black area being exposed for long periods of time, there can be some electrical noise generated by the sensor as it heats up during the long exposure. This is why the two DSLR cameras that shoot video, limit the length of time the video can run before the camera automatically shuts off. The same holds true for cameras with live view. After a certain amount of time, before the sensor can be damaged by heat, the camera will shut off.

2009-02-17 02:58:24 by Hugh Jorgan, at your Service...

Price: $29.00 $6.95

Allows for shutter release up to 25 feet
Instant or 2-second shutter release delay
Battery included, Typical Battery Life - up to 2 years, 10,000 exposures

I have an Olympus E-520 which I like alot but was recently stolen and frankly I was looking to replace it with an E-30 but decided to expand my horizons. I came across the D90/300/700 line up and was really impressed. Where the Oly starts to fade at ISO 800 the Nikons were just warming up! I'd really like to get the '300 or '700 but there's a big price difference. On the one hand, I'm far from a pro and still learning and maybe not ready for the D700. On the other hand I can grow into it knowing I have the best (short of the tank-like pro D3). The full-frame sensor ensuring every bit of light is available for my pix. Is the difference in price /performance too big a deal for someone who isn't making a living of taking pictures? The D700 is at the very outer limit of my budget and maybe the $$ would be better spent on a D300 and a good lens? The thought of the Fx D700 and a 50mm f/1.4 gives me chills, though. Can't decide..

d700 - full frame - good high iso noise, all in all a better camera for a serious photographer.

2009-07-18 15:32:29 by AmigaJoe

HD Multi-Coated 67mm 3 Piece Enhancing Filter Kit (UV Protector, Circular Polarizer & FLD Fluorescent Filter)
UV Protective Filter: Prevents loss of sharpness and contrast by filtering out UV rays and Haze. Protects Lens from scratches, scuffs and smudges
Circular Polarizing Filter Eliminates Reflections From Non-Metallic Surfaces, And Increases Contrast And Color Saturation

just wanted to find out what people out there are using and if they reccomend anything, (bearing in mind that im a student with a VERY limited budget, so something i can pick up on ebay for less than £30), (film cmaeras not digi please), ill start, Zenit E SLR with Helios-44-2 lense for close range or a Hunter (japanese) telescopic zoom lense for zomming in on distant shots. Olympus Trip 35 with Miranda 330CB flash
just a note, i mainly do landscape and arcitectural documentary syle and some personal pics of everyday events

For me, I definitely prefer cameras with completely manual exposure control. So I would suggest a vintage 35mm SLR. I have a Minolta SR-1 and Minolta SRT-101 and they're both excellent cameras. You should be able to find one on eBay in good condition for fairly cheap. I live in the United States, so the currency here is a little different. (I think your money is about double US dollars). You should be able to find a good SLR camera for $60, but you'll have to be patient. Even vintage cameras can get expensive.

The other option is 35mm rangefinder camera. If you don't mind using an antique camera, any of the Argus rangefinder cameras are good, like the Argus C4 or Argus C-44. The Argus C3 is a good camera too and it will take very sharp pictures...but it's REALLY old and kind of heavy and boxy. I like it, but that's because I'm into collecting antique cameras. The other cool thing about the Argus C3 though is that it doesn't have double exposure prevention...so you can try some interesting effects with double exposures if you wanted.

Minolta and Yashica made some really nice rangefinder cameras too.

If you're a student and you want a film camera, then I would suggest getting one with completely manual exposure, so you will learn more about basic photography (how to set the aperture and shutter speed, double exposures, long exposures, etc).

Besides, film cameras are a lot more fun and challenging to use than digital anyway. I use film almost exclusively for all my pictures now. I pretty much only use digital cameras for snapshots...for "real" photography, I prefer using film.

2009-06-13 13:24:07 by Elron Nightshade