Vivitar 283

I have recently changed from OM1 system to Nikon F3, I have a Vivitar 283 electronic flash. Is there a hot shoe coupler so that I use this flash on the Nikon F3. Also will it sync up. Thanks, Ed.

You don't say how old your 283 was If its an old one you may want to go with something like the wein HS to HS safe sync slave. Some older versions of the 283 can have high trigger voltages. The ones marked "made in China are supposed to be the newer ones and to have a safe trigger voltage. Heres a good link on trigger voltages and there was a good article in this months shutterbug on using older flashes on newer cameras

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolt s.html

The F3 was made long enough ago it should be safe with higher trigger voltages but better safe than sorry

2009-10-04 08:38:30 by Edward

This is a quick vid of my favorite off camera lighting. This is a Vivitar 283, a very simple and very innexpensive but highly effective flash. If ...

My camera, Nikon N60, is an older model and I want an external flash. I have been offered a Vivitar 283. I was hoping someone out there knew if they would work together, or know how I could find out before buying it.
Thanks

There are two main variations of Vivitar 283. The later models sported a lower trigger voltage and will work fine on N60. The earlier models of Vivitar 283 may harm the metering or electronics of your camera.

Overall if you find the one that works with your camera, it's a good flash and provides light with excellent colour temp. for portraits.

2009-03-29 14:12:11 by foxyroxypie

Price: $179.99

Auto Thyristor circuitry
Illuminated calculator dial
Sufficient-light indicator

I'm guessing the 283 was created sometime in the 80's but i want to know if its safe. how do i use a multimeter? and also if its made in japan is it safe?
I own a Vivitar 285HV; very, very, nice flash.

To measure the trigger voltage, set your multimeter to 500V DC, or something similar. Turn the flash on and measure the voltage at the hot shoe contacts. The positive lead (red) should connect to the center contact, the negative lead (black) to the side contact. If it's above 100 volts, you may want to consider buying a flash meant for your camera. If you own a DSLR, get one made for your camera so you can take advantage of TTL metering.

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolt s.html
Above web site lists trigger voltages. Your 283 appears to have many different reported trigger voltages depending on when and where it was built. The site also has a tutorial on how to measure trigger voltages, but beware that measuring high voltage units requires an electrometer style voltmeter with very high input impedance (much higher than 10 megohms they suggest) due to a series dropping resistor in the flash. Using a 10 megohm input resistance meter can easily make your voltage measurement read too low by 50 volts. The lower voltage flashes (under 10V), you can use any high impedance meter (10 megohms is fine) and get accurate results.

2009-10-29 21:58:19 by Ima Noobeeee

Price: $249.99 $76.82

Red eye reduction
Includes reflecting plate & wide angle diffuser
Uses 4 AA batteries (not included)

As affordable as possible. Radio, light slave, etc?

Any specific hardware recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks Mr. M,

Do you have a favorite?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SKY-3-Optical-Slave- Trigger-for-Hot-Shoe-Flash-New_W0QQitemZ 260428924835QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defaul tDomain_0?hash=item3ca2c607a3&_trksi d=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66% 3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A1| 293%3A1|294%3A503A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

2009-06-20 05:26:07 by Mere Mortal

Use a "safe sync"
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll ?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=sa fe+sync&category0=
to protect the electronics of the camera and shoot in manual in camera. Works fine.

2008-01-17 23:21:11 by Mere Mortal